Crawton, Stonehaven

Yesterday evening we discovered Marge's refrigerator wasn't working. Fortunately it wasn't anything too serious, just a technical fault which John fixed. On the downside, we had to throw away quite a lot of meat we'd bought a few days ago in Fort William. 

This morning our Dutch neighbours breakfasted on coffee, eggs and Lindor chocolates! Seemed good to us. Before leaving, a walk on the golden sands of Lossiemouth. Two typhoon aircraft from the nearby RAF station flew over. The noise from them is deafening. On the beach we collected some of the smallest shells we'd ever seen, which when we look at them back home in our shell jar will always remind us of this trip. 

Deciding not to head back inland just yet, we struck out to the east coast. The drive on fast roads, with Marge being chased by the impatient Scottish through banks of low cloud and drizzly rain made us question whether we'd made a mistake travelling east.

But upon our arrival at Stonehaven we were glad we had. We walked along the large crescent shaped sweeping beach, stopping often to look at all the different stones and pebbles. The mix of geology is deposited on the beach by the waters of the River Carron which originates from Campsie Fells on the eastern edge of the Grampians. 

Thinking we'd be staying overnight on Stonehaven promenade we suddenly found ourselves on the move. Yes we could park Marge, as long as we didn't cook or sleep overnight in her. So we drove a little further past Dunnotter castle to Crawton where we joined a few other vans at the parking area for the Fowlsheugh Nature Reserve. Which suited us very well, as we could walk out to see the seabirds before leaving in the morning before heading back inland. We have just one problem: No Lindor chocolates for breakfast!

Lossiemouth

Another day, another hill walk. This morning a chill hung in the air as did the cloud which was reluctant to lift off the nearby mountains. However we wrapped up and walked to the nearby waterfall and back through the slightly petrified trees. Pretty pink and white wood anemones peppered the long wet grass. 

(A few comments on the reserve sightings board were a bit odd!)

Today we were in no rush. You've peaked too soon Marge. Our pack rafting course in nearby Aberfeldy is in a few days' time, so with time to lose we decided to head up to the coast. After just ten minutes we found ourselves at The Pattack Falls.

An amazing beauty spot right alongside the main road. The onward drive took us through the Cairngorms, passing by a stone that marked the geographical centre of Scotland before arriving at the small town of Carrbridge, where we stopped to look at the oldest stone bridge in the highlands.

The town is also famous for the World Championship Porridge Making Championships which takes place each year, and draws contestants from all over the world. We'd like to have been in town to have seen it. 

Marge has now delivered us to Lossiemouth on Scotland's north east coast. An extraordinary fact about this town is that in the early 1900's the sand dunes were artificially made by placing dozens of disused railway carriages on the beach to protect the town from the sea.

We were at the seaside, so it had to be fish and chips for tonight's meal. 'One and half breaded haddock suppers, please.' We could both hear John's late father saying. 'Get the girl a full sized portion!

Creagmeagaidh National Nature Reserve, Aberarder.

Garry Loch looked more appealing this morning, the rain that fell through the night had moved away and the weather for the day looked hopeful. But before we could travel too far we needed to stop off at the nearby community hall which had a water tap outside for the vans to use. Donations appreciated.

A beautiful drive alongside Loch Lochy took us to Fort William where we took the opportunity to do an Aldi shop. The store was chaotic. The Scottish lady in front of Angela at the check out thought maybe it was pension day. She was impressed when told we'd just returned from the Outer Hebrides. All that way! And, you've got a good colour, was the weather good? Outside in the car park, a far too large hired motorhome was in danger of wrecking havoc. Wait until you reach those single track roads. It's always a good idea to hire the largest van you can afford. Home is where you park it. At this point on the bonnet of the car behind.

One of our neighbours back at home recommended we visit Glen Nevis. So we did just that. Before setting off on our woodland walk we launched outside at one of the picnic benches, the day now warm. The walk took us alongside the water that fell from the upper waterfall. We walked quite a way up passing the  lower falls, sitting to take in the view. A cathedral of large rocks all around, fallen from the nearby mountains where clouds clung to their flanks. And great examples of Scots pine growing alongside oak, hazel and birch trees. The snow line was so close it seemed within striking distance. How hard could it be? 'All the gear, no idea!' Thanks Marge.

We are heading east now, and have just entered the Cairngorms National Park. Our stop is the Creagmeagaidh National Nature Reserve car park. If the weather's fine in the morning we hope to take a walk out here. There's a chance we may see a Golden Eagle which would be fantastic. Meanwhile a thick blanket of cloud is descending on the mountains around us. It's looking like it could be a cold night.

Garry Loch, Invergarry

Just Marge and one small van remained on Raasay last night. It felt very isolated, even though the ferry to return us to Skye was berthed in the nearby harbour. An orange glow emitted from the lamps that lit nearby Raasay house penetrating the darkness.

This morning everything changed with the weather. Rain, rain, rain was today's forecast. Oh joy. We'd been spoiled these last couple of weeks. At 10 am the ferry slid into the Sound of Raasay. The Cuillin hills so clearly visible yesterday, sagged under a blanket of low cloud. We had no onward plan. We tried to catch a ferry over to Mallaig, to no avail. First availability tomorrow lunchtime. On the plus side wild garlic grew in abundance nearby, so John filled a bag to satisfy his love of it. So after stopping to buy some fruit, from a small supermarket virtually stripped bare by van shoppers, we drove to Kyleleakin where we made a loose onward plan over lunch. 

Sorry Marge, today's driving will be mostly uphill. Remember the top of one is then a race down to climb the next one. The rain fell lightly, so we were still able to see the view and of course the striking Eileen Donan castle where pink blossoms foamed on cherry trees, brightening the grey day. 

We decided to stop alongside Loch Garry, about fifteen miles from Fort William. This'll do Marge. The rain eased a little and we walked along the shore of the loch, our boots slipping on the wet stones. Silvery speckled leaves of lungwort clung to the trees alongside pale green lichen as light as candy floss. 

Our walk took us to a tiny cemetery set amongst the trees, which of course we entered to read the gravestones, as we always do for some reason. The sign on the gate, ''visitors welcome'. Not just yet thanks!