Bordeaux

A beautiful sunrise this morning. Yes, we were up early enough to see it. The palm trees silhouettes against the rays of the slowly rising sun.

The vines lost in the glare. Today we were off to Bordeaux to Camping du Lac. Yes, a proper campsite! Bordeaux has no aire for the vans and it is certainly not a sutable place to leave Marge parked up whilst we go off exploring. Right team Hampton let's go. First shopping. Aldi was just a few minutes drive away. Perfect. We were able to buy some fresh produce to top us up for the next few days. 

The drive to Bordeaux took us through wine country. Vines stretched as far as the eye could see like a regiment of soldiers. Soon though we were thrown into the fast lane finding ourselves on the ring road around Bordeaux. Speed up Marge, the lorry drivers will not be happy if you dawdle. Just before noon we arrived at the campsite. Forty euros paid for a two night stay we found our pitch. Luxury, a large area under the trees, electricity, our own personal water tap. This was the first time we'd paid for an overnight stay since we left home. So you could say each night has cost us two euros. Bargain! We were more than happy to pay. We like Bordeaux and have stayed at this site three times before whilst cycle camping. It is close to the centre of the city by bike and Marge is safe here, so we're all happy.

 We have a view of one of the lakes. Our neighbours are mostly German. The couple next to us have a huge van.

The man opened the door of his garage (the cupboard that runs under the back of the van) and low and behold we could see his washing machine running. Don't look Marge. We haven't the room. Tomorrow though we will make use of the laundry facilities on the site. Heaven. a day off from hand washing. 

As we prepared to go out a French couple couldn't decide where to park their van. Should they drive in to the space or reverse. Hey, watch out you nearly hit Marge! They didn't like their pitch so wandered around looking at all the others. John changing in to his cycling clothes said, 'If I stand here naked singing the "Hokey Cokey" (a song our grandson Elliot has taught him) do you think it'll frighten them away'. Frighten them, more likely traumatise them! Thanks Marge. It worked they moved a little further behind us. 

It took us a thirty minutes to cycle in to the heart of the city along a well marked cycle route. As we passed by the pine trees we could see many tents pitched. This is a common sight in French cities so it did not surprise us. Later we noticed there were quite a lot of Syrians around begging.

Down by the river Gironde we saw the river cruise ships moored up. One of them was the Viking cruise boat we'd seen yesterday at Blaye.

We cycled along the river front and then into the town in search of cake. Two large slabs of chocolate cakes purchased we sat in a square in the afternoon sunshine. The area was busy. We love Bordeaux. Its architecture, people, river, art, history and at that moment cake.

A few pigeons shuffled around our feet hoping for a few crumbs. You must be joking! Exploring the narrow streets we found ourselves outside the cathedral.

 

An imposing gothic edifice. Beautiful. We both went inside, separately not wanting to leave our bicycles unattended even with the lock on. The majestic grandeur of the interior dominated by a huge pipe organ was beautiful. 

Just as we left the cathedral a few drops of rain began to fall. Angela was glad she'd had the foresight to pack our waterproof trousers. Quick, let's return to Marge. The cold stinging rain was unpleasant. We couldn't believe four days ago we were wearing shorts and T-shirts. But hey, we are on our holidays and as far as the weather goes you have to go with it. Fortunately the rain began to ease. The tyres of our bicycles cut a path through the rivers of primrose yellow pollen that fell onto the wet path from the flowering pine trees that overhung. 

Back at the campsite we could hear the call of the bull frogs in the nearby lake. We know we'll be able to hear them through the night. I hope not. Tell them we'll eat their legs. Be kind Marge. 

Blaye (Day 2)

When we awoke this morning the French couple opposite depicted a typical French scene. They were sat outside their small van on mis-matched chairs at a camping table under the palm trees eating breakfast. After packing up, the lady came over to say au revoir and wish us a bonnes vacances . The weather was a little miserable, a few spots of rain fell. We showered not rushing to do our chores whilst we waited for the weather to settle. Which it did. A group were being given a tour of the outside of the chateau. Quick close my back doors, your smalls drying are not part of the itinerary. O.K. Marge, we were trying to be discreet.

By noon we were ready to walk into town to buy food for lunch.

We sat by the estuary a while. A spring tide was evident as the tide line was clearly visible right up in the car park, the water now receded so much the sculptured sandbanks supported small boats left well and truly high and dry.

A Viking river cruise boat slipped quietly onto its berth, and right on cue the sun broke through the persistent cloud. 

We walked in to the citadel and found a picnic table in a sunny spot behind a wall. The temperature now 18c. We'd been spared the cold spell for now.

A walk through the narrow medieval streets stopping to look into the few open shops we came across the municipal campsite. Always tempted by a campsite we went in for a look despite it being closed. We both agreed it would be a wonderful place to stay in the heart of the citadel with views across the estuary.

Today has been a lazy day, but enjoyable. As we sat in Marge enjoying the late afternoon sun the English couple we met yesterday came over for a chat. They will be travelling in Europe for three months. Their first time. We discussed places to visit and stay. As we drank our evening aperitif. The sun low in the sky still warmed us. This is the life, Marge.

By the time we'd eaten a westerly wind had set in bringing a chill to the air. We walked through the vines down to the Gironde standing by one of the fisherman's huts watching the ruffled waves hit the river bank. We will miss the chateau when we leave tomorrow, it has been a wonderful place to spend a couple of nights.

Tomorrow Marge, Bordeaux.

Blaye

 This morning we decided to leave Ile d'Oleron. We had enjoyed our time there. But with the unpredictable weather forecast we felt it time to move a little further south. A few spots of rain fell. The earthy distinctive smell released when rain falls on dry ground filled the air. The sun failed to make an appearance thanks to​ a stubborn covering of cloud. Before leaving we walked in to town for a baguette.

Also, an impulse buy at the gift shop of a tea towel featuring sardines that we thought would look nice in our newly painted kitchen back at home. Returning to Marge an inquisitive Frenchman asked if we were Ukrainian. What? No. We wondered why so many French people had stopped to look at us and Marge. We'd even joked before we left home that the large U.K. sticker on Marge's rear might confuse people. It obviously had. Said Frenchman also quipped did GB stand for Grande Brexit! With that we fired up Marge and left, leaving him laughing at his own joke.

Our intended overnight stop was the medieval city of Pons. On the way we passed a field where dozens of storks were feeding. Yesterday we'd seen a disused stork's nest high up on an electricity pylon. Then a little further along the road at a garden centre we saw a camel. Have you two been at the fly agaric (magic) mushrooms? No Marge. We have visited Pons twice before.

But after lunching at the aire and making use of the facilities we decided to move a little further south to Blaye on the eastern side of the Gironde estuary. The area is cycling country for us. After some discussion about where to stay we decided to try the aire at Chateau Marquis de Vauban. We're staying at a chateau Marge. You and your chateaus! Not any old chateau Marge, look at the grape vines. We're in Bordeaux country. Angela's in Bordeaux heaven then! By now the weather had settled, the sun was out and the temperature a respectable 17c. We walked in to the town and down to the ferry terminal.

The last ferry of the day was just about to depart across to Lamarque on the west side of The Gironde estuary. Seeing it leave bought back fond memories of us crossing on it with our bicycles.

Although we have passed this way before we had never really taken a proper look at the old town so walked up to the citadel to take a look. A wine festival is being staged here this weekend and lots of activity was taken place in preparation for it. It being late in the day, besides the workmen, visitors were few and we were able to take our time looking around. However, time was getting on, so back to Marge who was happily settled on a grassy pitch by the trees in front of the château, with a view of the vines.

There are two other English vans here, some Belgians, Germans and Dutch. It must be the wine that's brought us altogether. Oh, and the free electrical hook-up! Opposite Marge is a French couple. After our evening walk around the chateau grounds, they struck up conversation. Angela pulling her best French out of the bag conversed with them discussing the weather, the fact Marge was left hand drive, but a British registered vehicle and whether we were on our way back to the Great Britain. Yes, it was nice for March. Yes, April's weather could be one way or the other. Marge is left hand drive because she's an imported vehicle from Germany. No, we were heading further south and would be away for around another twenty-eight days.

Exhausted from all this French speaking Angela cracked open another bottle of Bordeaux.

It is so nice here at the chateau that we are thinking of staying tomorrow night as well. You're O.K. with that aren't you, Marge?