Monbert (the return to)

Last night the realisation of just how relaxing it is, as the light begins to fade, and darkness sets in, sitting and reading is. As we’ve mentioned previously, the French are very keen on television, but we haven’t missed it at all. We are both thinking how wonderful it would be to go off in Marge for the whole summer, but we have responsibilities at home, so that trip will have to wait.

This morning, the  yellow and red of the early morning sun, coloured the sky, like the heart of a peach. After breakfast, we walked along the promenade to take one last look at the sea, before we set off. The usual Saturday morning activities of jogging, walking and cycling were happening all around us.

Before, we went for our walk, we noticed that in the school playground being us, tables and trestles were being set up in the playground. On the way back, we stopped at the entrance to the school to see what was going on. A team of men and women were opening oyster shells with ease and at great speed. They had already plated up half a dozen oysters along with a wedge of lemon on many plates. As we mentioned the town is famous for it’s oysters, we wondered if this was some kind of homage to the oyster, held at the end of every summer.

Today, it was sad for us to realise. that this will be our very last weekend in France this year. As we travel further north, despite the days being very warm, (this afternoon 28c), the nights and mornings are much fresher. Autumn is well on its way here, just as it will be back home.

Setting off along the coast, retracing our steps from when we arrived earlier in the month, we travelled through the marshland and nature reserve around La Rochelle, where a stork flew overhead, and then along the quiet country roads towards our lunch stop of  Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, where along the way we saw a large number of free range geese, and couldn’t help wondering what their fate night be.

At Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie we put some figs we’d picked from a tree next to us at last nights stop, onto the dashboard to ripen in the sun, this place is normally reserved for the drying of John’s socks!

 Then we walked down to the large expanse of beach, found a nice spot, and sat and read our books, and one of us paddled in the calm waters of the Atlantic.

Tonight, we are back at Monbert. Philippe is away, but Odile was here to greet us. In French and English we discussed our travels.

Before going to our pitch, Odile gave us a punnet of miniature plum tomatoes from Philippe’s vegetable garden. Once before, Philippe gave us some cherry tomatoes, and these were just as sweet as the ones we received today. Odile has told us tonight and tomorrow morning will be cold, suddenly we yearn for the warmer climate of Spain.

Boucholeurs

This morning, a slight sea mist hung in the air.

As we ate our breakfast, a group of French school children rode by, there colourful cycling helmets bobbling up and down.

Despite there being space on the small aire last night, three vans decided to park in the approach road under the trees. This morning, just after nine, the police were there moving them on. We have often seen the police drive round and check the aires, particularly when we were in Spain. One of the couples who had been told to move, parked opposite us. The wife was dispatched to refill their water container from the tap near the beach, when she returned she was half carrying and half dragging a large rusty anchor she’d found, as you do! The husband didn’t seem to be too pleased. Whether she ever replenished the water container we don’t know.

Before we left, we took a walk down to the beach, to fill our water bottle, and deposit a book into the small library cupboard. The boats in the harbour looked like ghost ships in the mist.

As we headed off, we noticed acres and acres of grapevines as we approached Bordeaux. Skirting around the city we notice some shanty towns, set up by people who looked liked they were probably immigrants.

We stopped at lunchtime to shop for wine and coffee (not wanting to run out of the essentials). We also bought a camembert, our first one of the trip.

Whilst we ate our lunch an old lady with a young man, who we presumed was her grandson came in driving a very small car. She pulled into the space, mounted the kerb and drove into the tree in front of her, what’s that they say about stop when you hear the bump! We watched them for a while, she appeared to be teaching the boy something, perhaps she was teaching him how ‘not’ to drive.

We have now driven over 3000 miles on this trip. Tonight’s stop is south of La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast at Boucholeurs. 

The town is famed for mussels and oysters. 

It is a quiet coastal resort, compared to the hustle and bustle of La Rochelle.

We have seen a few cyclists passing through on their way south, and we ourselves have also cycled this way on route to Spain following the Velodysee, Eurovelo 1 for John's 60th birthday treat.

Taussant (the return to)

It was really relaxing last night, to sit with Marge’s side door open, and look out over the canal. We both enjoyed the tranquillity.

This morning, the water on the canal flowed slowly by, the fronds of greenery on the opposite bank, reflecting perfectly in the water, in the morning sun. As the day awoke, the cyclists and boaters passed by, and the French began to shout at each other!

Moored near to us was a large, English owned, Dutch barge called Mr Pip. It is for sale at 175,000 euros. Looking on the Internet, we found out that in 2016 it was for sale for 220,000 euros. We think, they will have little chance of selling it now this year.

Whilst we packed up, preparing to leave, an enormous executive hotel barge called Rosa passed by. John shouted over to the crew, and asked if it was the barge used in a programme on television covering Rick Stein, as he cooked his way along the canal du midi, they confirmed it was.

After a quick stop for shopping and an ice cream we continued slowly. As the roads were quiet, we could take in the countryside, towns and villages.

 Passing through Villandraut, we stopped to photograph the medieval chateau, built in the 14^thcentury. There were two goats in the dried up moat, tasked with controlling the vegetation.

Further on we met a large number of road cyclists, a rainbow of colour as they raced by.

We ate a late lunch whilst we were parked in The Point car park at Cap Ferret. The temperature in our van was 32c. Due to an unsavoury young man strolling about the car park, looking at all the vehicles, we decided to each take a walk separately through the sand dunes, to look at the view across the bay of Arcachon. 

On the other side you could see the largest sand dune in Europe. We have seen the dune close up whilst cycling this coast. Finding the area too touristy, we decided to set off around the bay, to an aire we stayed two nights at, the first weekend we were in France. We are parked next to the same French couple who were here last time. When we arrived the man was playing his guitar and singing, it was very pleasant.

This evening, we walked the few metres to the beach, where we sat in the early evening sun reading, and enjoying a small lager. Just after 7pm, as the sun was starting to dip, turning the sky a watery pink, we returned to Marge.

Tomorrow, we will begin the last week of our trip. We can’t believe how quickly the time away has passed.

 Angela writes the words, and I take the photos using my phone, Angela forgot to mention this photo I shall for her, it was Angela's attempt to mount a 25,000 litre bottle of her beloved red wine onto the rear rack, the front wheels lifted off the ground so it had to be left behind....

Caumont sur Garonne

Yesterday morning, at the aire by the grapevines, we were the only van. This morning, it was like van central, with lots of activity going on around us. As the van’s left, off for another day of adventure, there is the traditional nod or wave of goodbye.

After we departed, we travelled to a nearby town to fill our water tank. Continuing on our journey, we passed many fruit farms. Apples were in abundance everywhere, along with eating grapes, pears, kiwi fruit and walnuts. Whilst we have been out walking and cycling, we have seen many figs, peaches, almonds and walnuts ripe for the picking, which John tends to do.

Our journey today, took us back and forth, across both the river, and canal Garonne. At one point, we arrived at a town adjacent to a nuclear power plant. 

The town of Golfech was one we stumbled upon on one of our cycling trips. On that occasion we stopped at the boulangerie for some lunch. Today for old times sake, we called in again, and once again bought a fougasse, luckily there was one left. For those of you who don’t know, it is like an oval shaped pizza. Ours had a topping of cheese, peppers and pork.

As we left the town, and the main road behind, we were greeted with narrowing roads and tight turns. Approaching tonight’s stop, we found ourselves having to cross a very narrow bridge over the canal. It was a very tight right turn on a gradient, which resulted in a quick decision having to be made, Marge’s front bumper, or the rear offside tyre, the tyre won, as we caught the kerb, luckily with no lasting damage.  

We are now settled in the first spot on a lovely aire alongside the canal at Caumont sur Garonne. The nearest large town if Marmaude. We are now south east of Bordeaux.

There is a lovely breeze, but the temperature in the shade this afternoon was 28c. Autumn has begun here, with the crisp brown leaves falling from the trees and carpeting the canal. At the edges of the canal, you could  see the pond skaters skimming about in the late afternoon sunshine.

We took a cycle ride out along the tow path. The crispy leaves were crunching under our tyres.

 Cycling along, brought back many happy memories of a previous trip. Our ride took us to a bar/restaurant adjacent to the tow path. Sadly, the bar wasn’t open, as the French holiday season tends to end by the middle of September. At the rear of the establishment is a small campsite, with nine pitches. We stayed at this campsite three years ago, on our return cycle journey from Spain.

Back at the van, we luckily hadc old lagers in our fridge waiting for us.

 Whist we sat at the picnic table alongside our pitch, we enjoyed the cold beer, whilst watching pairs of rowers being put through their paces, by a very angry sounding instructor.

Today our grandson Elliot is five weeks old. We were surprised by the photograph we were sent how much he had changed, since we saw him before we set off. I'm sure we’ll see a lot more changes in him when we return from this trip.

Tomorrow, we will set off towards the west coast, continuing our journey northwards. We have now travelled over 2700 miles.

Grisolles.

Last night as the light was fading, we took a walk up the hill through the vines.

 There was a fantastic full moon, and as we looked back, we could see the village nestled amongst the glow of the orange street lights.

It was the coolest night we’d had since being away, and this morning the air was much fresher. This morning we received an unwanted early morning call from the village cockerel. But otherwise a fantastic start to the day, the sun lighting the vines as they stood neatly trimmed by the harvest, they reminded us of well turned out soldiers on parade.  

Today we were headed in the direction of Toulouse, taking the quieter roads, passing through villages, and at one point crossing the canal du midi. This made us recollect our cycle trip to the med a few years back, when we cycled along it. Whilst we miss the cycle camping, it has been good to be able to cover more miles in Marge, and we still get to see some lovely sights when we pass through the quiet villages and surrounding countryside.

After a leisurely journey, we are now on an aire (with about forty other vans) by the canal La Garonne at Grisolles, just slightly north west of Toulouse. Grisolles is famous for straw sorghum brooms, which were made here between 1856 and 1980. The French couple in the van to the right of us, have a lovely green parrot in a cage with them.

Late this afternoon, after the heat had cooled to 25c, we set off on our bikes, to cycle along the canal. It brought back some happy memories of some previous trips along this way.

 In a field near the canal we saw a machine excavating gravel.

At the lock, two boats came through, the owners of one English, the other Canadian. They are now moored opposite the aire. Their is also another large canal boat moored by the bridge, it is named ‘carp diem’, which as you know means ‘seize the day’, something we couldn’t agree more.

After dinner we took a walk up to the bridge by the canal. To the right is the municipal school of music, and we admired the silhouette on the side, of the boy with his cello.

As we are near the water, it is another night with the mosquitoes, so tomorrow morning once again, we will have to break out the germolene!