Camping Bel Air, Sadirac

Today was going to be a long, very long day. A cycle of sixty miles. Doesn't sound too bad does it? Well we can tell you it was! As usual a quiet pleasant morning cycle along the canal. The light of the sun on the water turning it a milky green. The trees that line the canal always provide interest.

One in particular caught our eye. Full of holes from woodpeckers. It was hot and despite the heat we made good progress until we left La Reole. The flat cycling we'd become used to was no more. Uphill and uphill. Would it never ends? Apparently not. We were in Bordeaux country.

Mile after mile of grapevines. The sun beat down on us and the vines. The vines loved it. We didn't. The unrelenting hills challenged us too much and we had to result in walking up pushing our heavily laden bikes. At five o'clock we arrived at a very nice large town, but we couldn't stop we still had just over twenty miles to cycle. From here though it should be easy we joined a lovely smooth cycleway that was once a railway line. We'd be flying now. Or perhaps not. The gradients were long and our legs tired. Angela was at breaking point. She's had a bad cold and was flagging. Tired and emotional she dug deep. The campsite was likely to close at seven and sometimes there is a security gate to enter. At a few minutes after seven we arrived. The reception was just closing. We handed in John's passport for I.D. to ensure we'd pay in the morning. We were a two mile round trip from the town. John unloaded his bags and set off in search of pizza, which he returned with half an hour later. How on earth we'd managed the journey against sweltering heat and relentless hills, who knows. But as always we'd had. Not bad for a couple of oldies. Pizza eaten we went straight to bed.

Halte Nautique de Lagruere, Lagruere

We are now far enough north to notice a change in the weather. Lovely warm days, but cool damp nights. This morning a chill in the air. The first of the trip. Our stay on the free village campsite for cyclists was one to remember. We'd been welcomed by Serge, who had no bicycle but appeared to live on the site in a beach shelter. As a welcoming gift he gave us an apple each which we presume he scrumped from the nearby commercial orchard. We were first up this morning. Caravan man arose just as we were leaving, wishing us a good trip. Despite everyone being friendly the stay had felt a little odd.Not knowing how easy it would be to buy lunch food along the canal Angela bought a bread, cheese and a tomato from the village shops.

The ride along the canal was peaceful. A few dog walkers, joggers and day cyclists. Along one bank a large variety of mushrooms grew.

Satan's or Devil's Bolete, don't be tempted to eat one of these or you will become very acquainted with your bathroom! 

Campsites are scarce now, so just after two we stopped at a small site with fourteen pitches adjacent to a restaurant beside the canal. We stayed here many years ago, paid five euros s we think and remember having to clear dried leaves out of the sinks and shower tray before using the facilities. Fortunately the sanitary arrangements have improved since then. And we also had free use of a washing machine. Our clothes are in shock, they've not been inside a washing machine since we left home. We are in the middle of nowhere, so late afternoon, still warm enough to wear shorts and t-shirts we set off on the four mile round trip to the next town for supplies. At the town John asked two elderly ladies where the grocery store was.One gave directions in French which Angela understood. Then the other lady gave the same set of instructions. It made us smile. On the return cycle we could hear a musical sound. Near to us were hundreds of goats in a field, the bells they wore around their necks chiming gently.

Goats cheese and milk is very popular here. Once again we've been allowed to borrow chairs from the bar area. John asked if we can also have a table. Angela had told him how to ask in French. She's not sure how her request was interpreted. The lady pulled her top forward and looked at her breasts. Anyway, he returned with a table, if somewhat baffled.

Aire Naturelle Cyclotourist Comunale, Serignac-sur-Garrone

Last night was so warm. It's hard to believe it's October. For once we all had dry tents this morning and could pack up quickly. But rain threatened. Our first stop at a nearby town to buy paracetamol from the pharmacy and lunch from the bakers next door. Then a steady cycle along the canal. Rain clouds gathering we stopped at a picnic area under some trees for lunch.

Within minutes rain was falling, hence we ate quickly. This wasn't rain as we've known it. The last time we got wet the rain fell in torrents. A little shower wasn't going to bother us, we found a bus shelter nearby to sit it out in.

The canal path was quiet, very few cyclists around today. The branches of the large trees overhung to form a canopy. Another stop just before Agen where a man stopped to talk to John about our trip. 'No electric motor', he exclaimed! Upon Angela's return she found John holding a bag containing six mandarin oranges. An act of kindness? Or did the man feel sorry for us because he thought we couldn't afford an electric bike? As we cycled through Agen we passed a homeless man sat by the canal. John gave him two of the mandarins. The gesture was welcomed. What a strange day this was.

And then we saw a man towing a homemade caravan with an electric bike. We now know the electric motor on the bike is 'kaput', as he is here with us tonight on a free camping area for cyclists just off the canal. The weather is due to settle tomorrow, and temperatures will rise up into the thirties. So an early start to beat the heat.

Camping Le Moulin de Bidounet, Moissac

The party in the park music event carried on late until just after eleven. In England, when Christmas items appear in the shops we say, 'the countdown to Maria has begun'. As many of you will know, Maria Carey's song 'All I want for Christmas' is a very popular Christmas song. Just before eleven, Angela couldn't believe her ears. Maria blasting out what she wanted for Christmas. So everybody, the Christmas season has officially begun in France. Despite a very warm day yesterday, the temperature dipped during the night, and for an hour first thing this morning we wore our down jackets. By the time we set off the heat was once again building. At lunchtime 31c. We are now cycling a section of the Le canal des 2 mers. It links Sete on the Mediterranean to Royan, just above Bordeaux on the Atlantic coast. We've cycled most of it before, so it's nice to be revisiting campsites and towns we've visited before. 

Montech was our lunch stop. Here you cycle pass le machine, a vehicle made from two railway carriages that moves barges up an incline of 250 metres. Thus not needing a ladder lock. Today we have cycled around forty miles in intense heat. Angela's knee hurt, her wrist hurt, her head hurt and her throat was sore. But we had a tailwind, suddenly our bikes felt electrified and all was good. We are now at Moissac.

A cycle into town for food and to revisit the striking church before settling down for the evening. There is a young girl here from Mexico, she's been cycling for two months. We saw her at the lunch stop, and she'll probably be on the same campsite as us tomorrow evening. Suddenly we feel we are once again part of a cycling community, which is great.

Camping Le Rupe, Toulouse

This morning we were up by seven despite a disturbed night. Loud bassy music carried on the wind from the marina area and fireworks exploded into the night sky above us in the early hours. The mood on the campsite was sombre. A sad day for the French who had been on site all summer. Keen to be in good time for our train we were away by eight-thirty which gave us time for a coffee stop at the cafe a stones throw from the station.

The train was delayed shortening our time at Narbonne to connect with the Toulouse train, but we had plenty of room and didn't have to hang our bikes, a real bonus.

At Narbonne once again, as at Agde, pannier bags had to be removed and John had to carry the bicycles up and down flights of stairs. We were on the correct platform in good time but did not expect the train to be so busy. Passengers occupied the seats below the bike hooks and refused to move. How on earth six bikes squeezed on heaven knows. We were wedged between the two entry exit doors with other standing passengers and their large suitcases. The air con was off, Angela felt sick. She'd had a headache since yesterday lunchtime and now also had a sore throat. We talked with a young Australian man who coincidentally was in the printing business. Working for vista print of all people. Just before Carcassonne Angela felt so nauseous she took a travel sickness pill. After nearly two hours of standing we were relieved to reach Toulouse. As the other passengers spewed onto the platform Angela could believe she'd not thrown up all over them. The intense heat that met us as we exited the station surprised us. It was even hotter than the coast. Being a Sunday the town was quiet and after a hastily eaten baguette outside the station we rode of in search of a nearby shop that was open all day Sunday.

Outside two couples arrived on cargo bikes, complete with a cat in a carrier. The cat must have been really uncomfortable in the stifling heat. A man eying we had a box of four ice creams asked if we could spare him one. Of course. We've been to Toulouse before and seen how many people live alongside the canal in tents. Some under bridges have little more luxurious accomodations. Sleeping platforms made from old pallets. When we think of Toulouse our memory is always of these people and also the hundreds of Dutch barges that line the canals. As you may know the rugby world cup is being hosted by France. As yet we've not found ourselves caught up in the crowds. Tomorrow we will cycle further alongside the canal Garonne. Our next large town will be Bordeaux in a few days time. We love Bordeaux and will probably stay a few days. 

Camping la Mer, Cap d'Agde (day 2)

What a fantastic campsite Camping la Mer is. Friendly, very clean, shady and near to the beach.

We're not really beach people. We like to walk along them, but have no inclination to stretch out a towel and strip off. Unlike the locals. 'She's built for comfort not speed'. ' Speedos, more like slow mo". 'Let it all hang out love'. One older very thin lady, whom we called Magde, was as brown and crisp as a cooked chicken wing. Obviously not heard of skin cancer.

Across the sea Spain. The lower mountains of the Pyrenees  visible in the heat haze. At the beginning of this trip we used to tell people we were heading to Barcelona. Obviously events have changed that. Perhaps next year. 

 The supermarket in town was running down it's stock, as the holiday season is well and truly over here. By lunchtime, the temperature 33c we returned to the campsite and spent the afternoon reading and relaxing. Angela tired took a nap, awoken by John's mobile phone ringing. It was Saga insurance checking on Angela progress. Would we be staying in France or did we want bringing home? All's good at the moment so I think we'll stay. The lady who phoned seemed to think Saga would pay for our time in 'le coconut'. Here's hoping.

This evening we watched the sun go down from the beach. The coast of Spain turning pink. We hope in years to come we will be able to remember all these special moments. Our time in the med is coming to an end. Forced to leave because the season ends here tomorrow and campsites will close. We are taking an early train to Narbonne, then changing to another for Toulouse where we will stay on a campsite alongside the canal Gironde. From here we will cycle along the canal to the Atlantic coast and Bordeaux. The area is familiar to us, we were here earlier in the year. We need to be back in Cherbourg in two weeks time, so there's no rush.