Burghead

A very quiet night last night, not even a hoot of an owl. The early morning rain cleared whilst John cooked his breakfast omelette, complete with the Girolles he'd picked from the verge the evening before.

It would take about two hours to show if they weren't the real thing!

The Burn o' Vat visitor centre had been a very good overnight stop. There were public toilets, the cleanest we'd ever seen, drinking water and a toilet emptying point. Of course, we left a donation, why wouldn't we? 

Our drive this morning took us across country through a patchwork of fields, the colours of green and rust intermingling with each other. In a field in the distance a toy tractor ploughed strips of corduroy. The landscape made us think we were either in west Dorset or Devon. Just before we reached Elgin we took the chance to once again top up Marge's fuel. Our heating and hot water runs of it as well as Marge so we need to keep her full. We saw four fuel stations in and around Elgin, all seemed to be serving fuel from all their pumps which was a good sign. 

Today we'd decided to head towards Nairn and stop overnight somewhere close by. The Moray coast is known as Scotland's Sunshine Coast. Fingers crossed. Last year we travelled this way and stayed at Findhorn, but sadly the price of staying there has increased significantly which is probably why Burghead where we are tonight is busy with vans. And the local people have no problem with that, they are very friendly. Marge and us were the first to arrive and we have a fantastic view.

The sky blue and the sun shining. Like children we headed straight to the rocky beach hoping over rockpools, salty spray stinging our lips.

Then down to the working harbour.

The catch of the day appeared to be squid. Swimming around the fishing boats were four seals, forever hopeful.

Returning to Marge, who was now in the company of another van, we watched the shags on the nearby rocks posing as Dracula, there black wings like cloaks, outstretched to dry in the sun.

Then, dolphin alert! The word was out, they were a little off shore. Binoculars out we scanned the choppy sea water for a flash of silvery white. There! And more there! We'd seen our first dolphins of the trip, and Angela's first dolphins in the wild ever. Amazing, brilliant, exciting, unbelievable. Calm down. But Marge we've just seen dolphins, did you see them? No, I was too busy looking at the seal that just swam by. 

Seal and dolphin spotting over with it was then time for sunset photography. This travelling is full on. Tell me about it.

Marge look, is that Susan Calman in Helen Mirren? No that's a large Scottish man in a very small Suzuki camper van. 

It has been a good day. We are glad we headed further north to the coast rather than hanging around the Spey valley. As for the sunset, well aren't they all fabulous in a different way. As the sun bled across the sky we looked forward to tomorrow with excitement. We might see the dolphins again in the morning if we're lucky. 

 Muir of Dinnet

See Marge, we told you the weather would be good today. Arbroath looked a cheerier place this morning beneath blue skies and bathed in sunshine. We washed John's trousers and some smalls, deciding that we would invest in a more powerful washing device for our future trips. We're excited, its one up from our collapsible bucket, and you will all be the first to know when we get it. What's that black thing hanging on the wing mirror? It's Angela's bra. Bring it in, people will think I'm open for business. Don't be a prude Marge, this sea breeze is like having a tumble dryer we have to make the most of it.  

Reluctantly we left Arbroath, not wanting to give up the warmth on our bodies as we sat looking out to sea planning our day. But leave we must. Yes, let's go, there are hills to climb. Not like you Marge to be so keen. And hills there certainly were. Marge in second gear hauled us up the Cairn o' Mount, at one point having to negotiate her way around a covey of grouse running back and forth in front of her.

Well, done Marge, take a break, we're now 1,493 feet above sea level.

This was certainly the day to drive up the Cairn o' Mount, the views were stunning, we could see right to the coast. John read on the information board that RAF Edzell, where his father was stationed during the second world war, and met his mum was visible. So out came the binoculars.

We'd parked Marge with her wheels turned in to the side, just in case. She can be a little bit naughty sometimes. While we sat and took in the view a young man arrived excited about spotting a pair or eagles, but they flew away towards the coast before we could see them. We waited for a while as he had spotted another, but we didn't see it sadly. 

Our destination today was the Muir of Dinnet, National Nature Reserve, Burn o' Vat visitor centre. We're back near the mountains now Marge on the east side of the Cairngorms national park. We walked to the nearby waterfall through a carpet of bronze ferns.

The air chilled under the trees as we walked alongside the stream, a reminder we were now entering Autumn. Tomorrow is the last day of September, where had this last month gone?

At the waterfall we picked our way across the wet slippery stones into the vat, a large space created by swirling water, sand pebbles and boulders. Then John's mobile rang. Timing! Angela's son Chris. We're in a waterfall, we'll call back in ten minutes. It was true, but didn't sound believable. 

After a half hour rest back at Marge we walked out again just as the light began to fade. The vegetation all around gasped it last breath before finally giving in to the season.

Only the fungi thrived. Our walk back took us along the side of the road where we stopped to photograph Hoof Fungus on the trunks of cut silver birch trees.

 On the verge John spotted some bright yellow mushrooms, Girolles also known as Chanterelles.

Picking enough to fill his cap to go in his breakfast omelette we returned to Marge to investigate that they were the real thing and not the False Chanterelle.

Tonight there is just Marge. This is the first time we have been alone at night since setting off. It seems a little strange, but now we are approaching the end of September we think this may well be the first of many nights like this.

 Arbroath

This morning after breakfast we showered, did our washing and walked out in natures hairdryer.

The wind was much lighter so we walked out to Lady Janet Anstruther's tower and the Elie Ness lighthouse. Off shore we could see the redundant oil rigs and in the far distance the Isle of May, a national nature reserve.

The tide was out exposing vast expanses of sandy beaches amongst the rocks. At the tower we photographed the sandstone blocks, eroded by the elements. Some of them resembled markings from trees.

Upon our return the couple in the van in front of Marge were preparing to leave, probably hoping we wouldn't appear next to them again later today. Watch out Marge, people will think you're a stalker. Our neighbours seemed to enjoy different interests. He would go out on his mountain bike, and she would stay in the van knitting. We thought he might be cycling the Fife coastal path. 

Our next stop was once again St. Andrews. A university town with interesting architecture, the oldest golf course in the world and many gift shops. In his book Take The Slow Road Scotland, Martin Dorey describes the town as having more tartan than a highland fling. The weather closed in and the rain arrived. Great. We wanted to see the cathedral, which was closed due to a site survey.

This and the rain made it difficult to photograph. A quick look at the castle then back to Marge. Get out of town Marge and find us some better weather please. 

Further on we dismissed a couple of overnights stops. But we did stop at the Larick campsite at Tayport where once again five pounds paid for use of their services.

 Then over the Tay bridge to Dundee, the impressive V&A museum standing out on the bank of the Firth of Tay as we reached the city. 

Tonight, we are once again staying on the seafront at Arbroath. There are fifteen other vans besides Marge. The weather a little more settled we walked into town to the old abbey, which was also closed due to a site survey. The town seemed a little more down at heel than we remember from last year, but then we were here earlier in September.

Tomorrow's forecast is sun, sun, sun. At last, it seems the weather is settling. In your dreams. Don't be so pessimistic Marge.