Camping la Mer, Cap d'Agde

This morning the first sign of autumn. A light mist danced amongst the trees on the campsite. Once the sun rose it soon dissipated, revealing the river cruise boats over on the far side of the river.

We didn't mind the weather, we would rather leave Avingon having seen it at its best. Angela nervous as hell, was cross with herself that she'd lost her confidence since her accident. She's cycled thousands of miles in France, and it's only been in the last year she's fallen off her bike. Her knee, still healing wasn't happy with the exercise, but we were only going a very short distance to the railway station. Arriving in good time, we sat in the garden by the church where we met a young American man riding a Jones LWB in titanium. He'd arrived a couple of days ago in France, sailing from Poole, wild camping near Wareham the night before. What were the chances of meeting someone from our home area. Being younger and more adventurous he was heading to the Alps, then the Italian Dolomites before cycling to Slovenia. As you do.

Our two hour train journey passed quickly. Just before Sete all eyes were on the lagoons to the right. There they were, hundreds of salmon pink flamingos. Angela felt quite emotional. Even though we've seen these fascinating birds before, Angela thought her chances of seeing them on this trip was unlikely a week ago. So here we now are in the south of France. It is hot, very hot. And we are finally at the Mediterranean! 

We cycled out this evening to the nearby marina and people watched.

A welcome video call from home before we cycled back in the twilight. Just after nine, and we're sat out in shorts and t-shirts. This is the life. Just one problem. The campsites in the area close on Sunday. Tomorrow we  must make plans. We may need to jump on a train and move to Narbonne or Toulouse. We've landed on our feet tonight though. On chairs lent to us from the restaurant we are sat in the light of the sanitaires opposite. Free light, no head torch needed. The Germans next to us seem a little shocked at our chosen seating area. Not half as shocked as we were when the man stripped off behind his VW transporter pop top campervan. Do all owners of pop tops behave like this we wondered?

Camping Bagatelle, Avignon (the return day 6)

So much world, so little time. The words rang in our ears. Whilst staying at Avignon we have discussed travelling using our Brompton bicycles. A modification could be done to make them more suitable for touring and certainly easier to take on a train. It would allow us to move from area to area without always cycling, thus saving time. Today was our last full day here. A visit to the station where Caroline in the ticket office renewed our Advantage Senior discount cards for us. What with her grasp of English and ours of French the whole process was carried out with much hilarity. We are now booked onto a train at eleven-thirty tomorrow morning which will take us to Agde on the Mediterranean coast. Before we leave though, we wanted to walk the rest of the old streets.

The buildings there, some dating back to the medieval times. Leaning back at such an angle we wondered how long before they might collapse. There'd certainly be no chance of being given a mortgage on one in the U.K. Time passed quickly and we took the navette, free boat ride back across the river.

The evening was tinged with a little sadness. Once again we ate pizza whilst watching the moon rise over the town. The view was beautiful. We shall cherish our stay here. Angela is recovering well now, but has been very nervous about walking on the uneven pavements here without holding John's hand. She's frightened of falling on her healing knee. The same applies to cycling, but we will cycle less than ten miles tomorrow so all should be good. Tomorrow we must rise early to check out of 'Le Coconut'. The last twelve days have been eventful to say the least. In two weeks time we need to be in northern France where undoubtly it will feel much colder. The temperature here tomorrow 33c! We think we'll stick around a while in the med. We've a whole winter to feel cold.

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Camping Bagatelle, Avignon (the return day 5)

This morning, we moved our table and chairs onto the empty adjacent pitch which was bathed in sunlight. It has been wonderful these last few days to be able to enjoy a leisurely breakfast rather than snatching something quick whilst we pack up.

The campsite cat, who visits us daily stopped to stare, annoyed when a rival appeared for our attention. Today for the first time Angela felt her injured knee was on the mend. The daily bathing of betadine and sodium chloride doing its job. Her left hand and wrist not so good, still a little swollen and painful. But in time she knows it will settle down. For now she will keep wearing a pressure bandage. When we decided to stay here for six nights we wondered if we would find enough things to occupy us. We need not have been bothered. Each day we have discovered a new area in the town to explore.

Today the 'old streets' a labyrinth of back streets with interesting architecture, churches and water wheels. By late afternoon we were beaten by the heat, around 30c, and returned to the campsite where we entertained ourselves watching the afternoons new arrivals. Did we think the man carrying the plastic bucket adorned with tulip stickers was Dutch? Probably. Not of a giveaway really.

Paella night tonight. Sorry guys in the food truck. We'd seen them earlier when we walked to town, they greeted John today as mon ame (my friend). We think they love us because we always tip them. Tomorrow will be our last full-day here. We will spend.it planning our onward journey which will begin with a train. As yet we've paid no money for staying in the 'coconut', and can't understand why. Perhaps Saga have footed the bill, which we very much doubt. We'll be sad to leave, but as the signage on a campervan we saw yesterday read. 'So much world, so little time.

Camping Bagatelle, Avignon (the return day 4)

Just before ten last night John went up to the sanitaires to wash up. Other campers were fumbling about in the dark using the torches on their phones. He went to the reception, spoke to the security man who arrived and flicked the trip switch. All sorted. Thank God the English are here! Everyday we order our bread and pain chocolates for the next day. This morning a rude man pushed in front of Angela in the shop expecting to buy bread. 'No reserve, no baguette'. That was him told.

Chores done, we went into town bought lunch, and like yesterday sat in the shaded area in the garden by the church next to the tourist office. After we planned to visit one of the many museums near to the papal palace but became distracted by a street performer who mesmerized us.

He played the trumpet, electric mouth organ and sang. Sometimes his dog sang  with him.  He played 'fly me to the moon' and 'summertime', singing the lyrics in English, but also moody, sultry French songs which a young couple stepped up to dance too.

Once again the day warm, we were happy to sit in the shade of the plane trees to watch and listen. The museum would have to wait for another day. A week ago, we arrived in Avignon not expecting to return so soon after we left. In the seven nights we have stayed here we have eaten fantastic delicious pizza from the food truck outside the campsite four times. Tonight the guys, all smiles to see us once again greeted John as le patron, the boss.

Eating by the river, watching mont ventoux fade into the darkening sky as the moon rose over the church we knew we'd always remember these beautiful warm evenings here.