Mulhouse (Day 1)

DeIt rained in the night, and we had no way of drying our tent this morning, so packed it away we and set off in the rain to Basal. At five to midday we crossed the frontier into Switzerland. We'd made it. In just over three weeks we cycled around seven hundred and fifty miles, what with the detours to campsites etc. We found Basal a little underwhelming. Chaotic and dirty and the food we bought in the supermarket was very expensive. Angela of course couldn't resist a toblerone! Our trip was completed. We'd achieved our objective. Now where was the train station. We needed to return to Mulhouse. Cycle back? You must be joking!

Kembs

 

Beautiful sunrises, follow cold nights, and bright sunshine and clear blue then fill the day. It was all downhill now to Mulhouse. Our cycle along the canal was pleasant. We stopped to look at a bell that was erected to signify the local extinction of the curlew. A few barges sailed by, as always their owners waved us on our way. Today we would cycle through Mulhouse, stopping briefly on the way through alongside the canal to eat lunch. Our destination was a campsite at Kembs. Just ten miles from Basel, our overall destination. We'd not bothered to stock up on food as there was an Aldi supermarket close by. It was closed for five months. Why? Oh dear we had to source an evening meal. Angela went out to search and returned with two chicken burgers and chips from a nearby restaurant. The food was fantastic. The French don't stint on quality. Just after we arrived at the campsite, Anneka cycled in, on her return ride across the border to Basel, she thought we'd probably be here. It was nice to see her again, and perhaps one day we'll visit her at her home in Rouen.

Montreux - Chateau

Last night was so cold. Anneka, the French lady we'd spent camping alongside the last two nights was going to cycle around sixty miles to stay with her friend in an apartment in Mulhouse. After the very strong headwind of yesterday we knew Mulhouse would not be attainable for us, forty miles would do for us. Aware that there would be no campsite until Mulhouse we'd probably be wild camping. But Angela wasn't too happy about that option, so John sourced a chambre d'hote in Montreux-Chateau at a cost of forty-five euros. Sorted! Or were we? After no reply about our booking enquiry he decided we should find the house in the small town. We were informed that the chambre d'hote was only available May, June and part of July. Could we perhaps pay you ten euros to camp in your garden? No. After John explained he was an older man with grey hair, as she could see, to cycle to Mulhouse was just too far. She relented. We could set up our tent and camp for free. And would we like a beer? Of course Angela would. Her husband came over to chat and it turned out they were cyclists, having cycled the euro velo 6 from their home to Nantes. Would we like to come in for some food? Not wanting to impose, we politely declined, sourcing a pizza take-away in the town. Up early, we watched the sun rise. After refusing breakfast, but accepting coffee, we packed up, bought pain chocolate from the bakery and sat up by the canal to eat them whilst drying our tent. Once again, we'd experienced the kindness of strangers.

L'Isle-sur-le-Doubs

This morning all the cycle campers and camper van owners found a sunny spot to eat breakfast. The cold nights are not pleasant, but it's the price to pay for bright sunny days. The headwind today was fierce, around 20 mph. And cold. Another forty mile cycle alongside the canal Doubs and the stunning river Doubs. The scenery is breathtaking. The cycle after lunch was challenging, our legs screaming with pain as we climbed some very steep hills. Tonight we are once again sharing a table with our French friend. We are all tired and cold, but we can see our destination is close now. We are wondering if we will be handed a very large Toblerone chocolate bar and a small cuckoo clock as we cross the border.

Chalezeule (Besancon)

Today we are once again plagued by a headwind. However, that does not stop us enjoying the beautiful scenery and sunshine. The architecture is now more Swiss, chalet style homes with long sloping roofs. At lunchtime we stopped at a little campsite beside the canal, now closed for the season. We would have liked to have stayed if we could, but we needed to cover more ground. Our campsite, a naturist one, we could not find and although tired pedalled on to Besancon, arriving at the campsite at 7.30 pm. We'd cycled around forty-five miles, the last few miles up some steep hills. We were exhausted. But hey-ho, the restaurant on site sold pizza to take away. We shared a table with a sixty-three year old French lady, heading for Basel as we are. Yet another cold night lay ahead. The temperature is dropping nearly to freezing. Oh Marge, where are you with your lovely warm heating?

Dole

Today is our late queen's state funeral. We stopped cycling and found a tranquil quiet spot by the river Saone with views over the water lilies to watch it on John's mobile phone. It felt strange not to be in England. The wind has changed direction and is blowing in our faces making the cycling hard going. But pedal on we must, Switzerland is a few days away now.