Montreux - Chateau

Last night was so cold. Anneka, the French lady we'd spent camping alongside the last two nights was going to cycle around sixty miles to stay with her friend in an apartment in Mulhouse. After the very strong headwind of yesterday we knew Mulhouse would not be attainable for us, forty miles would do for us. Aware that there would be no campsite until Mulhouse we'd probably be wild camping. But Angela wasn't too happy about that option, so John sourced a chambre d'hote in Montreux-Chateau at a cost of forty-five euros. Sorted! Or were we? After no reply about our booking enquiry he decided we should find the house in the small town. We were informed that the chambre d'hote was only available May, June and part of July. Could we perhaps pay you ten euros to camp in your garden? No. After John explained he was an older man with grey hair, as she could see, to cycle to Mulhouse was just too far. She relented. We could set up our tent and camp for free. And would we like a beer? Of course Angela would. Her husband came over to chat and it turned out they were cyclists, having cycled the euro velo 6 from their home to Nantes. Would we like to come in for some food? Not wanting to impose, we politely declined, sourcing a pizza take-away in the town. Up early, we watched the sun rise. After refusing breakfast, but accepting coffee, we packed up, bought pain chocolate from the bakery and sat up by the canal to eat them whilst drying our tent. Once again, we'd experienced the kindness of strangers.

L'Isle-sur-le-Doubs

This morning all the cycle campers and camper van owners found a sunny spot to eat breakfast. The cold nights are not pleasant, but it's the price to pay for bright sunny days. The headwind today was fierce, around 20 mph. And cold. Another forty mile cycle alongside the canal Doubs and the stunning river Doubs. The scenery is breathtaking. The cycle after lunch was challenging, our legs screaming with pain as we climbed some very steep hills. Tonight we are once again sharing a table with our French friend. We are all tired and cold, but we can see our destination is close now. We are wondering if we will be handed a very large Toblerone chocolate bar and a small cuckoo clock as we cross the border.

Chalezeule (Besancon)

Today we are once again plagued by a headwind. However, that does not stop us enjoying the beautiful scenery and sunshine. The architecture is now more Swiss, chalet style homes with long sloping roofs. At lunchtime we stopped at a little campsite beside the canal, now closed for the season. We would have liked to have stayed if we could, but we needed to cover more ground. Our campsite, a naturist one, we could not find and although tired pedalled on to Besancon, arriving at the campsite at 7.30 pm. We'd cycled around forty-five miles, the last few miles up some steep hills. We were exhausted. But hey-ho, the restaurant on site sold pizza to take away. We shared a table with a sixty-three year old French lady, heading for Basel as we are. Yet another cold night lay ahead. The temperature is dropping nearly to freezing. Oh Marge, where are you with your lovely warm heating?

Dole

Today is our late queen's state funeral. We stopped cycling and found a tranquil quiet spot by the river Saone with views over the water lilies to watch it on John's mobile phone. It felt strange not to be in England. The wind has changed direction and is blowing in our faces making the cycling hard going. But pedal on we must, Switzerland is a few days away now.

Seurre

The night's are getting colder now, very cold in fact. However the days are bright and sunny, and warm. The young French couple we met a few days ago spotted us at lunchtime and came over to say hi. We are a friendly bunch in the cycling community. Tonight we are hoping for a more peaceful night, Last night (Saturday), the seasonal workers partied until 2 am. 

Bragny-sur-Saone

The campsite reception was closed when we arrived last night as it was when we left this morning. Nothing to pay then! Last night had been cold, very cold. The young French couple we have spent a few nights with suffered as well and told us there was a Decathlon sports shop along today's route. We decided to find it to buy a sleeping bag, inner. The town was large and we cycled miles of our route buying another thinner sleeping bag we could use as a quilt if necessary. Our cycle took us along the canal, through open countryside and alongside the pretty river Saone, which is where we are staying. The campsite is very basic, on the internet the facilities are described as medieval! Saturday night, and the pizza van was in town. Result.