Auterive

 

This morning the sun shone, and it slightly was warmer.

At last! The view across to the caged fruit trees heavy with bridal white blossom enhanced the day. A tabby cat appeared, stopping to stare at us. Yes, we're English.

After breakfast we walked up to the market of only a handful of stalls, with very few customers. Large supermarkets seem to be on the edge of larger towns in France, sucking the lifeblood out of the town centres. Every day we see closed down shops and bakeries. It saddens us.

Today we would travel to the other side of Toulouse taking the peripherique to skirt around the city centre. The road was fast, the driving terrible. Cars cut Marge up from the left and the right side. Stay calm Marge, we'll be off this road soon. We were heading for an Aire a little south of the city in Venerque, but when we arrived and saw the van we would have to park next to had its engine running and a generator rigged up it was an automatic no!

Another few miles took us to the town of Auterive on the river Ariege. The Aire is right beside the river. Two other vans were already there with not a generator between them. This will do nicely Marge. Interesting town and a view of the river. 

By now there was enough heat from the sun to dispense with our coats, hats, gloves and scarves which we needed these last few days.

It was heaven to once again feel the warmth of the spring sunshine. Late afternoon we sat out behind Marge, drink in hand. Another van arrived. The husband desperately tried to tune the automatic television satellite receiver dish, but it just kept spinning around. The two other vans here seemed to be tuned in O.K. After turning the van around his wife did not look happy. Then at last a signal was found. Relax everyone. Televisions to watch, they don't know how lucky they are. We spend all our time watching our loo pot, just in case!

We have been travelling three weeks now and have covered less than a thousand miles. We like to travel on the slow roads as much as possible. You see more sights that way.

Tomorrow we will drive to the hilltop town of Carcassonne and then in the next few days on towards Spain. News of fuel shortages means we will have to be vigilant and not stray to far from the French border. 

Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave

It was 3 degrees C inside Marge when we woke up this morning. Ice had formed on the outside of Marge's sunroof, and the grass was white with frost.

 Despite the cold of the night, we'd been as snug as two little mice in a nest. A bright sky welcomed the day. Unfortunately, Marge was parked at the wrong end of the Aire, in the shade. We were the only van last night, which always unnerves Angela. But all was fine. Before leaving we walked a little way along the river Lot. Three kayakers silently paddled by barely disturbing the water. The market was on in the small town. Just three stalls. Taking advantage of the services we filled up Marge's 100 litre water tank before we left.

Today we didn't want to drive far so headed to Valence D'Agen on the canal lateral du Garonne. Our drive took us from the Atlantic area and into the Mid-Pyrenees. The terrain was interesting. Marge wheezed up the hills. Filling the water tank was a good idea, wasn't it? Sorry Marge. The drive took us through landscapes of newly ploughed earth, rugged and dry and fields of green. We exchanged grapevines for crops. High up the views were amazing. Stop Marge! Photo opportunity.

Look at that hilltop town. And so, we continued. Stop. Look at the popular trees, regimented and naked they would make a nice photograph.

Eventually we started to descend. A helter-skelter of a drive. Marge sailed down flying by some lovely homes that were more like Spanish villas than the traditional French houses we'd become accustomed to. 

By lunchtime we'd reached the canal. We knew the area and during the summer months it is popular with vans. Not today. Just Marge.

Parked by the old abattoir, built in the 1830's we felt alone and isolated.

Never the less we walked in to the town which was large, run down and didn't have a particularly nice vibe. John discovered a card operated automatic fruit and veg shop or rather dispensary. Why? When there was a supermarket nearby that was open seven days a week. Tempted to have a go at this vending concept he bought some grapes. 

The cold weather these last few days has made us realise that France is best seen when the sun shines, as it was a week ago. There is also another saying. Never go back to faces and places. We had lovely memories of a lot of the places we've visited here, but were starting to realise that we should perhaps not revisit and just hold on to those memories. Places change, just as people do. Around half past six we decided to move on a little to the small town of Saint-Nicolas-de-la- Grave, where it turned out we'd been to before to use the service point on the aire. There was a van already there. The man gave us a welcoming thumbs up.

So now Marge is settled in a small, quiet town. But what a town. We've never seen houses in such a bad state of repair as the ones here. Missing rendering and mortar, missing roof tiles and rotten window frames, and cracks, very big cracks! Even the renaissance church is in a state of collapse!

Tomorrow we will head in the direction of Toulouse. The weather is set to improve, thank goodness. We're seeking the sun, Marge. Head towards the Mediterranean. 

Le Temple - sur -Lot

There she blows Marge. I know I'm being showered with falling debris from the tree above. By this morning the wind had calmed. The sun shone through the trees picking out the beautiful bright fresh new green leaves which danced in the light breeze.

Outside Marge four mallard ducks scoured the ground for breakfast. We considered staying another night in Bordeaux there being so much more for us to see. But we knew we would return another day and it would give us something to look forward to. We would leave with fond memories, well almost. Angela's shower experience yesterday not such a fond memory. It's one thing the wind blowing around your pop socks, but another when it blows around your gusset. A quick video call home before we left just to catch up and we moved off our pitch, only to park outside the campsite barrier to continue using the free wi-fi to download some programmes for us to watch on our laptop of an evening. Get your monies worth why don't you? We will Marge.

After the fast pace of the Bordeaux ring road, we found ourselves on quieter country roads passing by yet more vines and wineries. Some of the chateaus that sat amongst the vines were stunning. At the small town of Moulon we stopped in the main square to buy a baguette. Angela sent John in to buy it, thinking afterwards it may not have been a good idea. The square was pretty, so we stayed and had our lunch there. 

Our overnight stop was to be Caumont Sur Garonne on the Garonne canal. We have stayed here before and also cycled along the canal. Our last visit was during the summer. Today the site looked miserable. Groundworks were taking place and we were a little concerned about spending the night under the trees after last night's wind, so we moved on to Tonneins.

The aire there was quite busy, but the thought of spending the night with one van running its heater continuously and another running a generator along with some people hanging around drinking very strong lager did not appeal. It was now late afternoon.

We stopped at the nearby supermarket for essentials, chocolate, chocolate biscuits, wine, etc. and then moved on and are now in the small beau town of Le Temple-sur-Lot which has links to the Knights Templar. 

Tomorrow we will head towards Toulouse. Today has been sunny but very cold. We are hoping as we drive further south the weather will be an improving picture. 

Bordeaux (Day 2)

Once again, we were up early this morning. Let us clarify though that early to us means somewhere around eight o' clock. Lazy. We can hear you, Marge. The sun was up, but it was cold. April 1st. Bring on the showers. Marge basked in the early morning sun that lit a sea of blue sky. We wanted to cycle back into Bordeaux this morning and take more of a look around before the forecast bad weather for this afternoon arrived. Retracing our steps of yesterday we wondered how cold last night had been for the rough sleepers in their tents under the pine trees. This was their home all year round whatever the weather. The wind was cold against our grimacing faces and we were glad when we reached the waterfront which was bathed in sunshine. Cycling along we stopped to photograph some of the sights.

 The historic city gate Port Cailhau, Porte de Bourgogne an 18^th century roman arch, the Grand Theatre, monuments and bridges. Unlike yesterday we were able to see clearly down the river. Stunning. A quick stop for coffee and it was time to head back to the campsite, taking one last look back at the beautiful historic buildings that line the waterfront. A view we will never tire of. Lunch baguette purchased we pedalled into a head wind. Oh joy. 

Chores to attend to we firstly gathered up all the garments that needed washing. Five euros and they were churning nicely. How long had we been wearing some of these clothes? Our tea towel was probably in a state of shock. Then showers. Angela couldn't be bothered to walk up to the new sanitary block opting to use the more semi-alfresco block near to Marge. They were nice and clean and there was hot water. Not for the faint hearted though. Today's temperature 8c, with a breeze. A breeze around your nether regions is all very well on a nice warm day, but today not such a good idea. Honestly, she'll be needing to tuck her vest in her pants to warm up. O.K. Marge. Embarrassing. All tucked in Angela returned to Marge suggesting John use the shower cubicles in the new block.

What's that? It's an RV Marge. Doesn't look much like a recreational vehicle to me. Nor us. We wondered how many miles to the gallon it did. The man driving it didn't seem to have a clue. As usual his wife stood right behind the vehicle in the blind spot as he reversed. We noticed a large scrape near one of the rear quarters. It was like a small coach. John concluded there was probably a car inside at the rear. There was. Not for us thanks. Marge is enough of a handful.

The forecast hailstorm at 4 pm didn't arrive. Our washing dried nicely in the strong wind. Then around 5 pm an angry cloud settled over Marge, the wind speed increased, Angela dashed out to retrieve the drying clothes and we waited for the heavy rain and hail to pass. Since then, we've had a mix of sunshine and showers. It wouldn't be April, would it? 

Tomorrow we will leave camping du lac Bordeaux. We're sure we'll be back another day. We need to think carefully now about our onward journey. We don't want to just cover old ground; we'd like to visit some new areas as well. Best get up early then. We'll see Marge, we've over three weeks until we have to be in Cherbourg. Time for lots of adventures yet.