St Jean Sur Mayenne

Yesterday evening as the lowering sun turned the sky from blue to pink, we sat and listened to the birdsong. So many different calls. This is one thing we will miss when we return home. We were keen to set off fairly early this morning, but at the same time a little sad to have to leave the Loire especially on such a glorious day. As we crossed the bridge at Saumur we could feel the pull of the river. It looked so beautiful. Driving along the levee that restrains the river from flooding the small towns along its banks we spotted a boulangerie, stopping to buy bread for lunch. Not really wanting to leave the area we sat a while looking at the river, still and peaceful. But leave we must, to tonight's stop on the river Mayenne. 

As we drove pass popular trees, banks of bluebells and fields of asparagus where harvesting was in progress, we took the time to take in the beauty that surrounded us. The roads were quiet and we could take our time, or apparently not. A lorry driver appeared sounding his horn and flashing his lights. Alright man with small anatomy I can go slower if you like. You tell him Marge! I prefer Spanish lorry drivers. So does Angela, so much more patient. We held our ground and luckily escaped his intimidation when we turned onto an even quieter road making sure we signalled a response to his behaviour.  Realising that the aire tonight may well be our last chance to cook on our outside grill we stopped to buy sausages, which should have taken a few minutes. No, even though it was lunchtime and the supermarket quiet the lady serving at the checkout seemed to know most of the customers asking after husbands, daughters, sisters and probably Dutch uncles. 

(Cyclist accommodation, a fixed tent with table and seating below)

Tonight's aire is yet another former campsite. Twelve euros paid we settled Marge in a very nice hedged bay. Nice hey Marge. Toilets, showers, washing up facilities and electrical hook up are all included in the price.

A walk alongside the river Mayenne then into the town devoid of shops as a Carrefour supermarket is on the outskirts made us feel a little sad that the lifeblood of the small town had been sucked away.

We took a look at the chapel and then walked through a glade along side the river Ernee where we came across two goats who seemed surprised to see us.

Back at Marge, sausages sizzling nicely we could hear bagpipes playing. The sound seemed out of place but at the same time enjoyable. 

Tomorrow we will drive up to the D-Day landing beaches of Normandy. We are ten miles from Chateau de la Motte Husson. Who knows, our route may take us right by. Angela you're such a stalker! No I'm not Marge.

Now if Marge had produced a 4 wheeled child.....

Dampierre sur Loire (Day 2)

We both slept badly last night as the result of separate bad dreams. Some bloody cuckoo didn't cause them, did it? No Marge. Leave the cuckoo alone, their call is nice to wake up to. All that aside a clear bright day greeted us. It was going to be a hot one. Normal morning activity on the aire began. Vans experiencing television reception problems changed places. T.V. is such a serious business here. John observed a tree creeper for a while as it scuttled up a nearby tree looking for a tasty morsel.

Then he cooked up an omelette with the rest of the mushrooms he foraged at Saint- Aubin-des-Ormeaux. Having survived the last twenty four hours after cooking them yesterday morning they were obviously not harmful.

Late morning we cycled the few miles down to Turquant to the remains of the troglodyte dwellings built into the hillside of tufa stone.

We have been here a few times now and always find the empty homes interesting. At one time there were six hundred people living here in the damp cave dwellings.

 At Montsoreau we bought bread and brownies then sat by the river alongside other cyclists and walkers to eat lunch. The sun very warm by now, we moved to a shadier table after the walkers left. Across the river a squadron of swans maintained their neat line as they swam. 

The everchanging shadows cast across the river enhanced its beauty. Cycling further on we found a shady spot near some traditional Toue and Toue Cabanee boats to sit and read.

Some kayakers glided by, barely breaking the surface of the water. Our Dutch neighbour from the aire was there also with the same idea. After some time Angela decided to stretch her legs stumbling upon a tabac where she bought ice lollies. She thought today was possibly the best day she'd had this trip. It was late afternoon before we began our return cycle.

Stopping amongst some trees to look at some very unusual fungi called King Arthurs cakes. Tired, but relaxed after around twenty miles of cycling we did not welcome the attention of our drunk English neighbours. Open another bottle of rose why don't you. No wonder the English abroad have a bad name.

Tomorrow we will move on to another aire that was formerly a campsite near Laval. Hang on Laval, isn't that near Mayenne? Yes Marge. Isn't there a certain chateau there that Angela's fond of. Might be. It's just coincidence we're travelling back that way. Really!

Dampierre sur Loire

Marge was the only van on the aire last night, but we didn't mind, the small town was quiet and we felt quite safe. This morning we awoke to the sound of a cuckoo, the second time this trip. We wish we could have actually seen it. Wanting to leave by ten we wandered up to the boulangerie to buy our lunch baguette. It is important when staying on these aires to spend money in the local town or village. Particularly at the bakery, as more and more of them are closing because of supermarkets opening nearby. Whilst John attended to the toilet emptying, singing 'super pooper' in homage to Abba, Angela noticed Marge could do with a clean herself. She is looking a little jaundiced from the pollen that fell on her from the fir trees whilst at the coast. Sorry, Marge, you've got that well-travelled look. Neglect more like! 

Today we were heading to the Loire. At the town of Cholet John mentioned we should look out for a campervan centre with an accessory shop. What, like that one across the road? A blind that covers one of our roof lights was damaged. In England they cost equivalent to 150 euros. After some discussion at the shop in French and then English we bought one for 88 euros, and they fitted it for us. Job done! Don't we treat you well Marge? Before leaving we looked around a couple of vans they had for sale. A very impressive little French number who looks like she could limbo under height barriers!

Watch out Marge, our eyes are wandering. 

Just before one o' clock, a smile spread across Angela's face. There in front of us was the river Loire looking stunning as always. We drove to an aire which was originally a campsite, until risk of flooding closed it. It's O.K. as an aire though. Not sure how that works. According to our aires book we should have paid, but a sign says it's free until further notice. Or perhaps it's free until the waters of the Loire flow across it. O.K. Marge, more positive please. Whatever the arrangement is it's fairly busy here. Marge is parked in the English/German/Dutch section. Once again the French wont park with any of us.

After a quick lunch it was shorts on. The temperature 22c, although it felt a little cooler. We cycled alongside the river on the cycle path just behind Marge known as Euro Velo 6. We have cycled along this all the way to Nevers. Perhaps we should add it to our list as something to do again. Today though we pedalled to Saumur.

 The town is dominated by a medieval chateau. We took a look around its grounds, taking in the stunning views of the town and river. Cake anyone? Cycling and cake go together as far as we're concerned. Two large slices of the chocolate variety were eaten as we sat beside the river fuelling us for our return cycle.  

This evening the aroma of meat cooking on grills permeated the aire. There are a lot of vans here, but it's quiet. Angela managed to dislodge a filling she only had replaced in January whilst eating yet more baguette. See, I'm not the only problem. We can't disagree with that Marge. At nine o' clock it was warm enough to sit in Marge with her side door open. We decided we would stay here for two nights, cycling out again tomorrow. What's that noise? Bull frogs Marge. Not again!

Saint-Aubin-des Ormeaux

 

Last night the wind eased a little. In the distance the cacophony of the bull frogs pierced the quiet of the night. Church bells tolled somewhere in the distance. What a pleasant little town Angoulins was. We  looked forward to returning another day.

This morning we left early. Today we needed shopping and fuel for Marge. Both of these tasks always eat in to the day. The supermarket was busy after the Easter weekend closure. Angela decided to start building her stock of wine to take back to the U.K. Just twelve this shop. Thirty-six still to buy! Then we set off.

Right Marge, no funny business. We mean it. The long straight roads lined with plane trees were busy with campervans. At lunchtime we once again stopped in a rest area back from the road. Marge one of seven vans.

As we sat at the picnic table eating our baguette and camembert, we felt very French. Today we had decided to only drive for a short while. John found an aire on the internet in a small town in the Pays de Loire region fairly near to our favourite campsite of all time at Monbert, which sadly isn't open until the first of June.

Just after two thirty Marge was sited and we could take it easy for the rest of the day.

We walked around the town and the nearby lake where the bull frogs sat very still sensing our presence not realising we could see them despite their camouflage.

Then along footpaths looking for fungi. John was delighted to find some edible Poplar Mushrooms (cylocybe cylindracea), confirming with our local foraging group in Dorset they were fine to eat. Pork kebabs cooked on our outside grill saw another day coming to an end. Before we knew it the time was eight o' clock. It doesn't become dark here until around nine twenty so we don't realise how late it is. 

Tomorrow we will head to the river Loire. Angela's excited. The river Loire and cycling. She'll be in heaven. Unlike you Marge who will be in the doghouse if you misbehave. Don't think we didn't notice your little wobble when we arrived here this afternoon.

Purple Toothwort growing near Marge, a totally parasitic flower with no photosynthetic parts!