Strathy Beach

Yesterday evening Angela realised she was starting to turn into her own mother, Margery. That's right Margery, what's all this Marge business?  No respect! It has become a nightly ritual to bring out the map, guide books and refer to the internet where possible. In Margery's day there was no internet, so all planning was done using guide books. 

Just before nine this morning we walked down to the harbour at John o' Groats, conscious that the day visitors would soon begin to arrive. The morning weather bright and clear. We could easily see across to Orkney, just six miles away. We had considered taking the ferry across, but decided to leave it for another time when the weather would be a little warmer. Photographs of us at that famous sign and around the harbour done we returned to the van. Shortly after a sparkling new Westfalia Sven Hedin van arrived. Don't be jealous Marge. The man came over to look at Marge. Don't they always? Coincidentally he had messaged John after he linked our blog to one of the Facebook groups for Westfalia T4 Exclusives and James Cooks. the man had asked if he had any internal pictures of Marge. Cheeky. Fancy us meeting in a little old place like John o' Groats! 

Taking advantage of the beautiful weather we walked along the coast path to the headland. Down below was shell beach where we spent a while sorting through the many hundreds of shells. We managed to find a Groatie Buckie, considered to be a lucky Caithness shell. Back at Marge, our Groatie Buckie stored in a safe place we sat enjoying the warm sunshine and decided to wait until after lunch before setting of. We are enjoying every day of our trip, even the wet ones strangely. We are fired up, our heads full of trips and experiences we'd like to do in the future.

Angela realised we were near to Dunscansby Lighthouse, where there were some sea stacks. The old red sandstone stacks of Dunscansby date back over 400 million years, slowly eroding away with the power of the north sea. Today was a good day to visit them, but not to photograph them. The sun was so bright it was difficult to obtain a decent photograph. But we both agreed, they were best seen with the human eye. 

Nearly half past three Marge, best get a wiggle on, we've only driven two miles so far. Tonight's stop was over an hour away. We drove through Thurso, the last large town we would see for a while, then across the moorland where a farmer towing a large sheep trailer overtook the van behind Marge and Marge, she was on the uphill so accelerating. Suddenly he pulled in, nearly hitting Marge and running her off the road. You, bloody stupid idiot , you nearly did for us. Forget you had the trailer on did you. Angela was a little shaken and so was Marge. We like to think our Groatie Buckie shell being on board 'saved our bacon'.

Relieved to arrive at our overnight stop we were surprised to see the other Sven Hedin van there. A little more talk about our vans and they set off to stay overnight further along. We're sure we'll meet them again further along the route.

After talking to a Scottish couple who had parked up at the top overlooking the bay, we walked through the sand dunes and down onto the beautiful sandy beach with steep cliffs to one end. The views out towards the Pentland Firth of foaming rolling waves, enjoyed by a couple of surfers was idyllic.

A wedge of swans flew over in the fading light of early evening. We watched a lone fisherman cast his line before heading back to Marge, rabbits fleeing in all directions from the vibration of our footsteps over the dunes.

Tomorrow we must try and leave a little earlier, arriving too late in the day at our next stop is tiring, especially when we will want to walk out and explore. And we're in agreement with Marge. Would all maniacs please stay off the road! 

John o' Groats

The wind blew all last night and showed no signs of giving in this morning. The sun fought for space amongst the fast-moving clouds eventually pushing them aside.

 This day three years ago we were in the Loire valley, France.

 And this day 2 years ago in Portugal wearing shorts. Shorts Marge! Well, you can forget wearing them here.

Taking advantage of some reasonable weather we tried to leave a little earlier than normal. The van next to us first provided some entertainment, the best bit the lady cleaning the dust of the dashboard with the sleeve of her pale jumper. Dirty woman. Be nice Marge. Well honestly hasn't she got a cloth. Today we had a treat in store for Marge. Why has this road got snow gates? Well Marge, you know how you like to drive something a little more adventurous, today it's the Berriedale Braes. Don't worry they've improved the road over the last year, it'll be a breeze. See even large lorries are using it, just don't meet one on a switchback. 

The morning sunshine lit the coastline as we travelled along the A9 towards Wick. The views were stunning. We stopped at Cairn o' Get, an impressive Neolithic chambered burial cairn. Another van pulled in to the parking area behind us. They took out their phones, googled, looked up and saw the cairn was a bit of a walk, and drove off. Another boxed ticked. Cairn o' Get visited.

We however were glad to stretch our legs, walking through a field of inquisitive sheep, then stopping to look at the views across the north sea towards the wind turbines.

Next stop Wick. The big town. Tesco for a food shop and fifteen pounds worth of diesel for Marge. Angela was shocked inside the store to see so many empty shelves. There was plenty of fresh produce, but packaged food was low. 

Tonight's chosen stop was John o' Groats. As we approached John pointed out some sand dunes to the right. Knowing there would probably be a beautiful sandy beach beyond them we took a right turn taking us down to Keiss beach.

Huge powerful rolling waves came towards us. Am I going to get wet? No Marge, we'll park you a little way back. We were mesmerised. The wind blew spindrifts across the waves. What a sight. 

Last year at John o' Groats we sat outside lunching in the warm sunshine. Not this year. The rain felt unrelenting and the wind blew a hooley. The vans came and went. Their owners running to that famous signpost for a photograph. A few however have stayed. The weather forecast for tomorrow is good, so we'll enjoy taking our time to look around the harbour area before leaving. And of course, we'll take a photograph of that famous signpost again.

Helmsdale

What did you think of Skelbo last night Marge. They're a really good Pop band. No Marge, that's Elbow. Enough nonsense.

wasn't the view across the loch this morning stunning? The clear early morning light threw shadows across the waters. Two seals played nearby. What a beautiful start to the day. 

Today we had decided to only drive for about an hour. Angela and Marge needed a rest, so we headed to Helmsdale, a small coastal village that we stopped at last year and said we'd like to return to. The oncoming traffic was busy and as we approached Dunrobin castle three people in vans waved to us. What's going on Marge, this is new. Must be your celebrity status, word was out. Move over Susan Calman and Helen Mirren, there's a new kid on the block. We felt we were in the NC500 club. Our intention had never been to drive it again, but here we are for now chasing the better weather.

Before lunch we walked to the nearby shops, calling in at Glencoast a small independent fishing and country shop. Where last year Angela bought a wool bobble hat. We talked to the owner, asking if there had been any further development on providing a service point for the vans. No, but the installation of three electric charging points for vehicles had. But they were all fenced of, some very small chance of flooding has delayed them being operational. Should have spent the money on the service point perhaps? We purchased two midge face coverings wanting to support the shop.

They were already on our shopping list for next year so we were pleased to find them at a reasonable price. 

The weather was due to change later today, so with the wind increasing we took the opportunity to walk out along the shore and onto the John o' Groats trail.

As we left the harbour a guard of shags lined the wall. Half an hour later a few spots of hard-hitting rain began spotting the pebbles under our feet. We of course were wearing appropriate footwear but not clothing, no waterproof jackets or trousers. After sheltering under a tree with no leaves, pretty pointless, we decided to head up off the beach to the main road. The path not too trodden took us up and in to who knows where. We were doomed. And then we arrived at a small graveyard.

What a lovely place to end your days looking out over the sea, but we weren't ready for that just yet.

Back up alongside the A9 we walked alongside the main road and back in to town. The filling station showed how serious the fuel crisis was here!

Joking apart we have been lucky so far. Back at Marge Angela modelled her new headgear, the things she has to do for this blog. Then the rain arrived with a vengeance. this was the heaviest rain we'd suffered since our first day on the Isle of Skye, and we didn't much like it. Luckily, as forecast, there was a window in the weather between six and seven and we were able to walk up the road to buy fish and chips.

Saturday night. Fish and chips, Strictly and wine, that'll do us wont it, Marge?

It seemed unusual to pick up a rock full of fossils on the beach which is composed mainly of very old rocks predating life on earth of the remains of molten rocks from ancient vocanoes, this one is coming home with us for further investigation. 

Skelbo

Sunset, dolphins, seals and sun, that summed up Burghead didn't it Marge? What about the cars coming and going between eight thirty and ten thirty? Perhaps they were hoping to see the aurora borealis (northern lights). No chance, sightings were at 0.3% last night. Perhaps the word was out that a Susan Calman 'looky likey' van was here. Who knows. In the description for the overnight parking, it said the locals 'were very friendly'. What did that mean? We were just glad we weren't parked at the end of the parking by the turning area. 

There was no rush to leave this morning. The rain stopped whilst we were sorting ourselves out giving way to a big blue sky. The mountains in the distance appearing out of the murk. Out in the Moray Firth two gannets dived in to the water awkwardly in the strong wind. Today was Friday. Most people look forward to the weekend, but we are always mindful to ensure we pick safe and quiet overnights spots on a Friday and Saturday. What about last Saturday we were in Edinburgh. Alright Marge, sometimes we get it a little wrong. As we left, a seal swam by. We were really enjoying being so close to nature up here in Scotland. 

Our journey took us up the coast to Inverness, over the Kessock bridge and onwards to the seaboard villages of Easter Ross. We were going to stay at Balintore but on leaving Marge it felt cold in the strong blustery wind. Plus, Angela wasn't sure about the place.

On our drive up we could see the many oil rigs blighting the view across the Cromarty Firth. Fifteen at the last count. Decaying and rusting giants of twisted metal. 

We are now at Skelbo, just a little further on from Dornoch.

Behind us is Skelbo castle, a ruined 14th century keep. We stayed here last year towards the end of our north coast 500 drive. Yes Marge. We're on the NC500 again, but don't worry we don't plan to travel the whole route this year.

Marge once again has a fantastic view, over Loch Fleet. On the sandbanks opposite the seals rest until the incoming tide forces them back in to the rising water. We are hoping in the morning to see the seals a little closer up on the rocks just beside Marge. This is a beautiful spot and besides the seals there are curlews, oyster catchers, herons, shags, geese and other seabirds to watch.  

Marge, do you realise that today you travelled over three bridges, spanning three firths. Of course, who do you think was driving?