Fort Augustus

A beautiful start to the morning, the sun giving light, but little warmth. Out in the loch we could see the heads of the seals popping up above the surface of the water. One young seal climbed onto a nearby rock, causing great excitement, and a flurry of photography. Just before we left this morning a gaggle of geese congregated in the shallows, emitting a cacophony of noise. Marge thought the word was out that she was in the area. No, Marge, they meet here every day for their elevenses.

Next stop Inverness. As we travelled the last few miles of the north coast 500, we passed near the Cromarty Firth where we saw lots of redundant oil rigs.

An eyesore of giant twisted metal. Not exactly 'a room with a view' as far as the nearby homes were concerned. Back at Inverness, we stopped at Tesco for a 'big shop', then visited a campsite where we paid £2.50 to sort out Marge's ablutions. With no guide book showing us our route and pointing out sights we should see, we were now on our own to plan our onward journey.

Fancy seeing the Loch Ness Monster Marge?

As we drove alongside the loch Angela spotted an AA Sentry Box, the second we'd seen whilst we've been away. A blast from the past. She remembered it was featured in her Michelin I Spy Book of The Road. Loch Ness did not really do it for us. It is a large expanse of water, with mountains to one side and no monster. You'd think by now they would have a model of the cryptozoological monster bobbing about. But no, not a Nessie in sight. It soon became quite apparent that we would find nowhere suitable to stop for the night, as the illusive monster had given the area celebrity status, and wild camping motorhomes were not considered a suitable backdrop.

So, when we reached Fort Augustus we booked on to a campsite. Marge is a little confused. Money has been spent on her overnight accommodation.

As for us, we're living the dream, long hot showers, fish and chip supper, what's not to like?

The site is right in the centre of Fort Augustus, near to the Caledonian Canal and a spectacular flight of locks. Our neighbours here have today returned by ferry from the Outer Hebrides. We had already thought next year we might like to return to Scotland at some point to travel between the islands. At the moment we are eighty-three miles from the Isle of Skye, we could feel Marge pulling us in its direction when she saw the road sign, as we arrived in Fort Augustus.   

Tomorrow we will head towards Harry Potter land, Fort William and the Jacobite steam train known also so as The Hogwarts Express.

Skelbo

Yesterday evening the fishing boats returned to the harbour with their catch, trays and trays of crabs. The frantic crustaceans were sorted, then loaded in to waiting vans, and whisked away to ensure their freshness for a waiting customer. During the night the rain pitter pattered on Marge, but the covering of cloud it brought with it made for a warmer night.

This morning the dark clouds cast shadows over the water. On the outer harbour wall, the cormorants stood to attention, awaiting their morning inspection from the seagulls who wheeled and screeched around them. Soon a blue sky split the clouds. Before we left Helmsdale, we walked to the library to donate a read book to their for-sale section. Then we stopped again at the outdoor shop where John purchased some fishing bait. In conversation with the owners we discussed the desperate need for more facilities for the vans in towns. They agreed, saying that the town council wanted to provide facilities, but the Highland Council would not help with funding. We had spent over thirty pounds in this shop whilst there, they could see how much it would improve the lively hood of the businesses in the town. We'd enjoyed our stay at Helmsdale, and told them so.

Once again, we had no plans to travel far today. We stopped at Dunrobin Castle, overlooking Dornoch Firth.

Walked around the outside and down to the water, where we saw yet more amazing coloured pebbles and stones.

Sat on one enjoying the sunshine was a Red Admiral butterfly. The tide was slipping away, leaving the footprints of walkers and dogs who'd passed this way before us. We decided to have our lunch before departing. Marge looked so settled under the trees, their leaves russet, red and golden, showing autumn was on the way. 

Then a short drive to Loch Fleet National Nature Reserve at Skelbo, our night will be spent by the ruins of Skelbo Castle. 

When we arrived, around a hundred seals were basking in the sun on various sandbanks, not moving until the incoming tide saw them slip in to the water. At the entrance to the loch we could see cotton threads of breaking waves, and in the shallow's geese, gulls, curlews and other seabirds waded. The wind was strong, and flattened the grass. We spent over three hours watching the wildlife, along with some other van owners, all of us mesmerised. Who knew wildlife could be so relaxing?   

After dinner, the wind having lessened we took a short walk out down the lane. Behind Marge are the ruins of Skelbo castle.

In the darkening sky a half cheese of a moon was pinned.

We are now less than fifty miles from Inverness where we departed from thirteen days ago. 

Tomorrow we plan to head to Loch Ness.

Helmsdale

From ten o' clock this morning, the other vans began to depart, including our rather annoying neighbour who insisted on parking his van sideways across two spaces, and refusing to move when asked politely by the owner of a smaller VW van. Why, we thought. Last night had been the coldest since leaving home three weeks ago, around 5 degrees. But Marge keeps us snug with her warm air heating. We left Dunbeath just before noon, taking advantage of the low tide and walking around the beach across shifting pebbles to the caves. 

Our stop for tonight was to be near Skelbo castle, but as we drove across the bridge at Helmsdale, we noticed some vans parked down by the harbour. Swinging Marge around in a side road we went to join them. It seemed a perfect stop. We lunched across the road, sitting outside a cafe with a view of the water. 

John being faithful to his Scottish roots, felt it was only right for him to have haggis in a roll, and black pudding in a roll to accompany his chips. After we had eaten, we walked into the small town. Angela bought a handknitted bobble hat in the small outdoor shop. The lady who served her, said the temperature this morning where she lived two miles down the road was minus two. As they say, you don't come to Scotland for the weather. 

Built the same year as our house at home! 

We are glad we decided to stop at Helmsdale, albeit only a few miles on from Dunbeath. Today has turned out to be a rest day which we are very grateful for. As we sit in Marge watching other vans arrive for the night, we can hear the gentle waves splash against the sea defence rocks. Later on, we hope to witness a stunning sunset.