Bonneval

What a great start to the day. We couldn't believe it, the sun was out. We hastily ate our breakfast and set off out. The deciduous trees alongside the river Loire a riot of colour.

On the roundabout, by the entrance to the aire, we spotted a small cluster of toadstools. In the trees which lined the road up to the chateau, hung large balls of mistletoe, a reminder that Christmas is not far away.

For us, Christmas is not on our radar, we've barely got used to autumn.

The market was on in the town, and we wandered through it, enjoying the food stalls displaying, meat, cheese, fruit and vegetables and charcuterie.

As always, there were live birds and fowl in cages, including both white and collared doves. A walk down one of the back streets found us outside a chocolatier. In the window was a large mound of both milk and dark chocolates made to look like horse chestnuts. They were stunning, but out of our price range at 24.50 euros for six pieces.

Back at Marge, we showered, had lunch and set off. We were grateful for the settled morning weather, but on our departure the rain returned. Just north of Orleans, we passed two pole dancing clubs within a short distance of each other. John, forever the joker, suggested they may be venues for Polish people to learn French country dancing! A little way along the road, as we passed Orleans-Bricy airbase, we could see the weather looked brighter in the direction we were headed. Well we got that wrong!

On our arrival at Bonneval the heavens opened. To access the aire, we had to cross a bridge of thick sheet steel, underneath which the fast flowing waters of the river Loir, passed.

O.K. Marge, go easy, we don't like the idea of getting wet either! 

Soon after we settled Marge, the sun reappeared.

Nearby a French man began juggling his boules, whilst waiting for his friends to join him.

We donned our waterproof coats and trousers, not trusting the weather, and walked into the medieval part of the town, passing by the Saint-Florentin Abbey, now a  mental health hospital.

Another day, so another church. This one of gothic architecture, with beautiful vibrant coloured stain glass windows, which the sunlight shone through, casting a rainbow of light on to the stone vaulted ceiling.

The town of Bonneval is known as Little Venice of Beauce, so outside the town hall was a gondola made of cane. It looked a little out of place to us, but now we know the significance of it, it makes sense. Perhaps a plaque should have been displayed by it, explaining its relevance. After our early lunch, and feeling we should spoil ourselves now it is nearly time to return home, we called into a boulangerie, for a cookie and chausson aux pomme. Naughty, but nice. But our indulgence doesn't end there. Tonight we will be treating ourselves to the pizza we'd promised ourselves when we returned to France. There's no stopping us now, we've become reckless!

Our journey is coming to an end far too quickly. We have missed our family, and hope this is reciprocated. We know nothing will have changed.

Next year we plan to 'tidy up our lives'. 2020 needs to be a year of change. For now, we must think of where we will go for our New Years break. Sorry Marge, you're not coming on this one. We feel enriched by our travels, it makes us feel alive, and there are many places we still want to visit. You must pursue every opportunity, you're a long time dead! Just go for it!

Sully-sur-Loire

What a beautiful morning this morning on the river Loire. The trees in full autumn mode, the air cold, a little watery sunlight, and an abundance of birdlife, fighting for position on a small island in the centre of the river. Squadrons of swans, regal herons, slender, demure, great egrets, and riotous cormorants. Underfoot a carpet of wet, golden brown, horse chestnut leaves. The whole scene, summed up autumn at this moment in time. 

We walked across the aqueduct, and back, passing three cycle tourists, not envying their ride in this weather. The rain had held, but on our return the wind ruffled the waters of both the river and the canal, encouraging a few moments of light drizzle.

Today we did not need to travel far, so a welcome reprieve for Marge. At lunchtime, we stopped at the riverside town of Gien. Quick, the rain has stopped! Another chance to walk and take a look around, walking by the chateau, through the town, and diving in to the church when the rain threatened.

On the river, the old flat bottomed wooden fishing boats swayed gently in the current of the fast flowing water. John commented on how it was only four months ago, on our way home from Italy, he had swum in the river Loire to cool down one afternoon. How time flies. 

After lunch, we decided to move on to the aire at  Sully-sur-Loire where we stayed last September in Marge 1. The aire then was busy, and she took the last space. Today there are just six vans here. Treating ourselves to an apple pastry, while we waited for the rain to clear, we discussed our onward journey, planning the stops for the next two nights.

At five o' clock, the rain eased, and we were able to walk out for the third time today. The weather over the last two days has not been good, and after being outside for so long over the last few weeks, we were starting to experience cabin fever.

We walked around the outside of the chateau, the moat emitting a rather distasteful smell, (now we know where the contents of the chemical toilets dispensed at the aire are directed!) The town was quiet, as it's Sunday. We enjoyed looking around, even though we've been here before. We even caught sight of the flattening pink stripe of the autumn sunset. After so many wonderful sunsets, it lifted our hearts a little to see this one on such a dismal day. 

By the time we returned to the van, the sky was an inky blue black. The rain starting yet again. We were glad to cosy up in Marge, knowing we'd be warm and comfortable from the elements outside. And with a pre-made chorizo and bean meal to heat up, we were still happy to be on our journey. 

Tomorrow, we will head away from the Loire, to travel north. Despite the weather, we do not want this trip to end, and have already discussed next years travels. Marge, how do you fancy Greece via Italy? 

Shaving shop, mirrors, soap razors...... 

Briare

Oh, what another night! Need to stop saying this. At six o'clock this morning, Marge's had leaked onto our bed. The rain during the night had been heavy and the sliding window in her roof, was dripping onto Angela's side. Thanks Marge, not the early morning wake up call we wanted. Life has changed for us dramatically over the last few days.

Four nights ago, we were in the Pyrenees, and the afternoon temperature was 25c, and we were wearing shorts and T-shirts. Now we were starting to wonder if the glorious weather of the last eight weeks had been a dream. 

Once again, we set off fairly early this morning, having been re-awoken by the neighbouring church bells ringing for mass at seven o' clock.

The rain had abated, and for the first part of our journey, we were able to enjoy the passing trees of gold and flaming reds, the deer in the ploughed fields, and the doe eyed cows, feeding on lush pasture, unlike the ones in Portugal, who scavenged on barren, arid ground. At lunchtime we stopped at a service area, busy with French families returning home after their half term break. Shortly after, the rain returned with a vengeance, accompanied by gusting winds. We know from contact we had this morning with one of our tenants in Poole, Dorset, that the weather at home is just as bad, if not worse. Despite it being another long days drive, we eventually arrived in the Pays de Loire. Marge, after thousands of miles of travelling deciding to become a 'speed queen', triggering a speed camera in a fifty kilometre per hour zone, doing fifty two kilometres per hour. Angela driving, felt a little aggrieved, the speed sign was barely three feet from the camera, hardly enough time to slow down! After all these weeks of driving below the speed limit, to conserve fuel, annoying other drivers, Marge is probably going to hear from the French Gendarme. Well we'll see what happens. 

Once again this evening the rain is back with us, as forecast. Luckily, once John had taken a look at Marge's leak, we were able walk out in to town for just over an hour. 

Upon reaching the town square, we realised we had stopped here earlier in the year to fill up Marge's water tank.

It was now dark, but the town was well lit. We went inside the church, hoping for some divine intervention regarding the weather.

 Background music was playing that would have been akin to a Chinese restaurant. A little strange.

Next to the aire is an aqueduct, which we cycled over when cycling the Loire valley a few years ago. We feel a little soft now, having Marge to propel us along, and we were going to say keep us dry. Sorry Marge, our cycle camping tent was more reliable, and we have sat in that through some heavy thunderstorms.

We are looking forward to a few relaxing days now after two long days of driving. The weather, although not dry seems a little more promising tomorrow. But for now, please Marge, no more wet bedding!

Sadroc

We were lucky yesterday to be able to walk out and dodge the showers. During the evening and through the night the rain returned, heavy and persistent at times. We knew our luck would run out with the weather at some point, and it seems that it has. 

Thankfully it was dry when we set off this morning, but the roads took us up hill and down dale. Some of the uphill took us up into the low cloud, making the day more miserable.

We know from the forecast, for the next week, our luck has run out, and it's rain all the way until we return home. We once again, envied the conveys of vans heading south. How we wish we could turn the clock back a few weeks. Oh well, at least we'll be climatised for the English weather. Once we are home, it'll be time to plan our trips to new and exciting places next year.

Angela's brother is on holiday in Australia at the moment, and today he was taking a boat trip through the Cataract Gorge, (unusual name), in Tasmania. It seems an age ago since we 'drove' through the Verdon Gorge, in the Burgundy region of France, on our return from Italy earlier this year.

A boat trips one thing, but the nervous thrill of driving through, and avoiding the rocks of a gorge another. Italy is definitely somewhere we'd like to return to, so perhaps that will be on the list for next year. We'll have to check with Marge, if she's ready to take on the Italian drivers again!  

After five hours of driving, we are now on the aire at Sadroc.

We're sure it is a very pretty village when the weather's good, but not today. Sad, is how you would describe it. Today is All Saints Day here, so a public holiday. Despite the rain, we donned waterproofs and ventured out, but only for a short while, it was just too miserable.

We walked up to the nearby church and then out to the edge of the village past the cemetery, which was busy with visitors, despite the weather. We realise why now, this being an important day for those of the Catholic faith. 

(Flowers at the War Memorial, it was too wet to revisit the cemetery to take more photographs) 

The graves were adorned with a fantastic display of chrysanthemums, of vibrant reds, yellow, pink and orange. We'd never seen a floral display like it before.

We are now in the Limousin region of France, home of the Massif Central Mountains. I think we may have introduced Marge II to a taste of them today. Thank god she's a strong old girl, we don't think Marge 1 would have survived this trip without self destructing.

Tomorrow's destination is the Loire valley, where will be back on familiar ground. As for the weather bring it on! Today may have been All Saints Day, it was also, 'end of shorts day'!